| Tools & Material |
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Tools
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Materials
- Lumber of your choice sufficient for the pieces listed in the quilt rack dimensions
- Wood screws: 8 flat-head wood screws #6 x 1 1/2"; 4 flathead wood screws #6 x1"
- 3/8" wooden pegs
- Assorted grit sandpaper
 - Finishing materials
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| Quilt Rack Dimensions |
These dimensions may be altered slightly, but keep in mind that drastic alterations
may
not work. For example, a quilt rack that is too tall may be top-heavy
and likely to topple over.
The quilt rack is made up of eight simple components.
- 2 stiles--
1" x 8" x 32" each. (The main vertical uprights that
frame the piece.)
- 4 horizontal cross members-- 1" x 2" x 26" each. (3 at the top
as hangers for the quilt and one at the bottom as a brace. The inside
measurement from stile to stile is 26")
- 2 horizontal feet-- 1" x 2" x 10" each. (These are secured to
the bottom of the stiles and help stabilize the rack.)
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| Shaping |
Now that the eight pieces are sized, it's time to put the final touches
on four of them before assembly.
- Let's start with the feet. Using your power miter saw or miter box, trim the
ends of each 1" x 2" x 10" piece at a 45° angle.
The angles slant toward each other at the top of each foot.
- Choose the particular cut you want for the top of the stiles. You can use a
rounded-top cut, which will require a band saw, jigsaw or scroll saw,
or select a simple dog-eared cut. For a rounded-top stile, mark the
piece for the round cut by locating and marking the width center. Make
another mark the same distance from the top. Use a compass to scribe
the curve from the marked center point.
- For a dog-eared look, determine the center of the top
edge
of one of the 1" x 8" x 32" stiles. From that center
point, measure 1 1/2" out on each side. You now have the middle
3" of the top edge of the stile. From each side of that 3"
mark, use a combination square and pencil to mark a 45° angle to
the long, vertical side of the stile. After you mark and cut one stile,
you may use it as a pattern for the second. Place the
ends
of the pieces against a stationary, vertical surface in order to ensure
two equal pieces when cut.
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| Drilling and Assembling |
- First, use a square and pencil to transfer the center mark at the top of the
stiles down about 7" on the outside
face
parallel with the long edges. Determine the side to face out by choosing
the most favorable wood grain.
- Make a mark perpendicular to the first mark 6" from the top all the
way across the stile to form an upside-down "T." Make certain
that the respective marks are parallel to the top and sides of the stile
since the "T" will determine where you will drill the holes
for the recessed screws.
- Measure and mark the spot for each hole, as described below, making a small
pencil mark across the respective lines of the "T." The three
spots where the lines intersect will mark the centers of your holes.
- The first hole, which will hold the screw for the top cross member, will
be 2 1/2" from the top of the stile, centered on the 7" pencil mark.
- The other two holes will be located 1 1/4" from each outside edge
of the stiles, intersecting the pencil mark running across the piece.
- For the bottom cross member, which serves primarily as a brace, determine the
center point of the stile at the bottom and use a light pencil mark
to transfer that point 5" up. Then measure 4" from the bottom,
making a small pencil mark across the previous 5" mark. That will
be the spot for your bottom brace.
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Once you have marked one of the stiles, lay it down on a flat, smooth surface.
The marks you just made are for countersink
holes for the screws that will hold the piece together, so they need
to be just 1/4" deep.
- Now that the countersink holes are drilled, drill
pilot
holes for the screws. Use a 1/16" twist bit to drill through
the center of the countersink holes and all the way through the stiles.
- After drilling the pilot holes in the stiles, do the same in both ends of
each 26" cross member: Determine the center of each end by marking
diagonal lines from corner to corner. The intersection of the lines
will be the center point. Now drill pilot holes approximately 1/4"
deep, using the same 1/16" twist bit used on the stiles.
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| Assembly |
- Start with the top cross member. Place a screw in the top recessed hole of
one of the stiles and, using a Phillips screwdriver, turn the screw
into the pilot hole until the tip begins to emerge on the other side.
Now place one of the cross members against the screw tip, align the
pilot hole, and turn the screw into the wood. Repeat for the other stile.
Continue until you have put all of the cross members, including the
bottom brace, in place. Be sure not to overtighten, so that you can adjust the cross members if
needed.
- After installing the cross members, measure 3" from each end of both
"feet." Then measure up from those points about 3/4"
(approximately to the center) of the feet. If everything fits together
properly and is correctly adjusted, tighten all screws.
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| Finishing Hints |
Finish your quilt rack with your favorite finish-- oil, lacquer or polyurethane.
Water-based polyurethanes are environmentally friendly, but do require
a different finishing technique. Before applying the finish, rub down
with a damp cloth. Allow the wood to dry and then sand to remove the raised
grain. Repeat this process several times to reduce the tendency of the
water-based finish to raise the grain. (The same technique should also
be used before applying water-based stains.)
ARTICLE COURTESY OF LOWS.COM
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When appliquéing small pieces, make an overlay
from Glad Press N' Seal as a placement guide - it is easily maneuvered and
allows easy placement. - Sharon in Montreal
